Donatella Versace Snubs Debut Versace Show as Brand Names New Designer

Famed fashion designer Donatella Versace was conspicuously absent from the first major Versace event to introduce Dario Vitale as creative director — a striking omission following her removal from the helm of her own brand earlier this year.

At age 70, Donatella had long served as Versace’s creative force, but in March 2025 she was officially replaced and reassigned to the role of chief brand ambassador. (AP News) In a corporate shake-up, the brand's ownership under Capri Holdings repositioned her while elevating Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu, into the creative spotlight. (AP News)

At Milan Fashion Week, Versace threw an “intimate event” in a 17th-century palazzo to unveil Vitale’s first collection under the brand. Donatella, however, did not attend. (AP News) This absence did not go unnoticed in fashion circles. One industry insider told Page Six, “The fact Donatella wasn’t present says everything,” suggesting that her removal from active creative control is more than procedural. (Page Six) The same source added that her late brother Gianni Versace—whose vision still looms over the brand—“wouldn’t even recognize the brand that bears his name.”

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Mixed Reviews & Fan Backlash

Reactions to Vitale’s debut were sharply divided. On one hand, The New York Times called the collection “cheeky, in every sense of the word.” (Page Six) On the other, The Cut initially branded early pieces “tacky” and “downmarket,” though it admitted that by look 10 the show had “extraordinary sex appeal.” (Page Six)

Veteran fashion critic Cathy Horyn offered a more skeptical take. In her review for The Cut, Horyn described the first several outfits as underwhelming — hoodies, Capri pants, and muscle shirts repurposed as minimalist panels — and wondered if Versace was going “down market.” Yet she acknowledged that later looks regained momentum. (The Cut)

Other commentators praised Vitale for evoking the spirit of Gianni Versace more than simply copying archive prints. The Guardian noted that he leaned into provocative silhouettes, backless cuts, and risqué tailoring — but with a fresh perspective rather than direct mimicry. (The Guardian)

Industry watchers also flagged the broader context: Versace is now owned by Capri Holdings, and rumors have swirled of a potential sale to Prada. In fact, reports indicate Prada’s acquisition of Versace has received approval from the European Commission as of late September 2025. (Reuters) The change in creative leadership may thus represent a repositioning as much as a reinvention.

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The Departure of Donatella: Succession or Revolt?

Donatella’s exit from the creative director post was announced on March 13, 2025. She confirmed her transition to chief brand ambassador and welcomed Vitale as her successor effective April 1. (People) Within her public statement she expressed that supporting new talent had always been vitally important, and emphasized her emotional ties to the brand: “Versace is in my DNA and always in my heart.” (People)

Still, speculation runs deep. Some insiders say she was effectively “pushed out” by corporate interests eager for fresh direction or cost restructuring. (Economic Times) Others frame it as a strategic succession plan tied to the brand’s sale trajectory. (FashionDive)

Regardless of motive, Donatella’s departure marks the first time in nearly 50 years that a Versace house will be led by someone outside the Versace family. (The Guardian) She is widely credited with sustaining and evolving the brand after Gianni’s 1997 murder, navigating both creative highs and commercial challenges. (Reuters)

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What’s Next for Donatella and the Brand

Though she skipped Vitale’s debut show, Donatella’s presence in Milan was not entirely absent. She was seen fraternizing with long-time friend Anna Wintour and attending a Vogue Italia / Kering event celebrating the launch of Cinemoda Club, a film series. (Page Six)

She is also slated to receive the Positive Change Award at the upcoming CFDA Fashion Awards in November — an acknowledgment of her influential role in the fashion community. (Page Six)

While Donatella shifts towards ambassadorial duties, Vitale’s challenging task will be to navigate the delicate balance between legacy and innovation. His debut built on heady nostalgia—Miami brights, exposed styling, sensual cuts—but he must also chart a new path that honors Versace’s bold DNA without reducing it to a pastiche. (See Who What Wear review) (Who What Wear)

The fashion world will be watching closely: will Vitale’s Versace emerge as a bold renaissance or a humbled echo of past glories? Either way, Donatella’s absence from the first show was a symbolic moment — and the beginning of a new chapter in the storied history of the Versace name.